Wednesday 27 May 2015

Long lasting makeup for oily skin - Innisfree Long Wear Cushion

Recently I've tried my first BB cushion, Laneige Pore Control and even though the BB itself didn't work for me, I enjoyed the experience of using cushion. Handy compact and easy application - I was eager to try another product of this type. This time I reached for Innisfree, mostly because of the "long wear" name.


Product description: A long-wear cushion formulated to keep the skin smooth and bright for a long time. This foundation reduces the appearance of pores, discolourations, and imperfections and ensures a perfectly flawless complexion every time. SPF 50+ PA+++.

The foundation contains:
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - offers multiple benefits for ageing skin- can improve skin's elasticity, enhance skin's barrier function, help erase discolourations, and revive skin's healthy tone and texture.
  • Citrus Unshiu (Satsuma Mandarin) Peel Extract - rich in carotenoids, coumarins, limonoids  and flavonoids, has anti-oxidant properties. Promotes proliferation of fibroblast cells ("colagen factories"), thus enhances skin's elasticity. Prevents dark spots and skin darkening by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase (enzyme responsible for hyperpigmentation).
  • Orchid Extract - has anti-oxidant, skin regenerating and brightening properties. Contains minerals such as calcium, copper and iron, that help to keep skin nourished.
  • Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract - it's a powerful antioxidant, protecting skin cells from the damage caused by free radicals. It is also known to reduce skin swelling and help soothe and condition sensitive skin. 
  • Camellia Japonica (the Japanese camellia, known as Tsubaki in Japanese) Leaf Extract - Camellia has been known for it's conditioning and anti-ageing properties since ancient times, mostly used as an oil extracted from flowers. Camellia is rich in fatty acids (Palmitic and Omega-6) and anti-oxidants. Thanks to Omega-9 has great penetration power, permeating deep into the skin and enhancing cell growth to give skin support and flexibility. Camellia is very effective in retention and enhancement of skin moisture.
  • Opuntia Coccinellifera (Prickly Pear Cactus) fruit extract - rich in vitamins (A, B, C) and antioxidants, has skin soothing and firming properties.
  • Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Extract - has antibacterial and sebum controlling properties. Promotes healing process and skin regeneration, also regulates melanin production. Great in treating acne and/or scarring.
  • Adenosine - helps prevent wrinkles, reduces UVB sun damage, increases the production of elastin and collagen reducing skin sagginess and improving tone.
  • Rice powder and corn starch - absorbing excess of sebum from skin.
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit or Flower Extract - A fragrant floral extract excellent for use on sensitive, irritated skin. 
  • Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract - contains vitamins A, C and E, antioxidants and  essential phytonutrients - lycopene, beta-carotene and bioflavonoids. Has antifungal and antibacterial properties. Promotes skin regeneration, however should be used with caution on sensitive skin. 
  • Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Extract - has ability to improve circulation, which leads to more healthy and vibrant skin. Has sebum-controlling and moisturising properties. 
  • Volcanic Ash - rich in Sulphur, which has antibacterial properties. Sulphur is one of the main proteins needed for the structural integrity of the skin, supports synthesis of Collagen. Thanks to it's ability to protect against toxins Sulphur slows down ageing process. Volcanic ash contains minerals and has powerful purifying properties - being able to absorb up to 10 times it's own weight, it will soak up impurities, toxins and excessive sebum from skin. 
  • UV filters: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (physical) and Octinoxate (chemical).
Ingredients: Water, Zinc Oxide (CI 77947), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Trisiloxane, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hdi/trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Glycerin, Orchid Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disodium Edta, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Lecithin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Mannitol, Mineral Salts, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Extract, Boron Nitride, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Sodium Chloride, Stearic Acid, Silica, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Powder, Adenosine, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Isostearic Acid, Isopropyl Palmitate, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Extract, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Propanediol, Volcanic Ash, Iron Oxides (ci 77491), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Fragrance 
Ingredients analysis [HERE]


Innisfree cushion is simply designed, ivory compact with single refill already placed inside and ready to use. The refill contains 15g of foundation. Many cushions comes with additional refill, but not this one. The foundation is available in three colours: #13 Light Beige, #21 Natural Beige and #23 True Beige. I've got shade #13, which turned out to be very similar to my Laneige cushion:


The colour is the only similarity - Laneige's foundation is a bit thicker than Innsifree and against the manufacturer promises it's definitely NOT suitable for oily skin. Innisfree, on the other hand, turned out to be great for oily skin.

First of all, this is my first Asian foundation that promises to be matte and really IS matte. Whatever the weather, I don't need mattifying powder any more. It's not 100%, dull matte, it looks natural, but it's matte enough to look good even on the tip of my oily nose. Secondly - the lasting power. As the
manufacturer description promises, this foundation really stays put for a long time. It doesn't oxidise, doesn't get patchy, doesn't change colour. It does disappear during the day a little bit, but just a little bit. After 12 hours it's still there (when blotted every couple of hours). The best part is that it's performing well with any type of background - both with primer or sunblock or on bare skin. It covers pores and evens out skin tone, tones down any redness.

Does it have any cons then? So far the only major con is efficiency. I use for about a month now, almost every day and while £5 tube of BB cream can last for good couple of months, in this case I already have to "look" for my foundation at the edges of refill, as the middle seems to be already drained out. Another con is lack of sebum control, even though product is clearly aimed for oily skin. It's actually pretty neutral towards sebum, it doesn't control it, but also doesn't increase oil production. Another con is lack of additional refill - you need to buy refill separately, what makes this cheap cushion a bit more expensive. For comparison, Laneige Pore Control costed £23 for compact with refill + another refill, so about £10 per refill, while Innisfree costs approx. £14 for compact with refill and extra refill costs approx. £10. Se even though we think that we are buying cheaper product, we don't really, Innisfree value is similar to Laneige. The significant difference is that Laneige is just prettier, more elegant. Innisfree's compact looks just cheaper than Laneige, even though it's not really...
On the other hand some may find lack of extra refill as a advantage, if you wouldn't like the foundation you wouldn't have to worry what to do with another refill.

Speaking of refills, I had to tell you that Innisfree startled me a little bit. From what I saw on "cushion blog" My Asian Skincare Story, most of the cushions has opening in compact bottom, through which we just push out the refill. That solution is used in my Laneige cushion, so I was expecting something similar from Innsifree, but surprise! The bottom of Innisfree pact is solid:


For a moment I thought that you simply cannot change the refill and you have to buy the whole thing over and over again. But no, I saw the refills on e-Bay. So maybe I got some tester version or something? Turns out that you have to lever the refill underneath the hinge of protective cover. It's a bit stubborn on the first time, but then it gets easier. Don't use your nails though, as you need to put a bit of force into it and I'm sure the nail would just brake. I used a screwdriver :P


Price:  approx. £14 on e-Bay.

Pros:
+ finally foundation that promises to be matte and really is matte
+ long lasting wear, stays put even for 12 hours
+ nice colour
+ good, buildable coverage
+ high SPF

Cons:
- the amount of foundation doesn't last for long, which makes it a bit expensive
- no extra refill included
- no sebum control (but it also doesn't increase sebum production)

Summary
At the moment it's my favourite foundation. Even though it runs out rather quickly, I still recommend it as worth trying, especially if you are looking for something matte.

What if you prefer dewy over the matte?
Innisfree created two cushions at the same time, which are opposite to each other. The opponent of matte and sebum-resistant Long Wear is Water Glow Cushion, which moisturises skin and leaves dewy effect.




Which one you would go for?

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