Wednesday 26 June 2013

Skin Food Peach Sake Pore BB Cream

Good afternoon :)
Another Skin Food product included in my "Big BB Cream Test" :)




Product description: A pore-refining BB cream that regulates sebum secretion while creating a flawless and matte complexion without feeling greasy.

Originally product comes in a tube with pump, cap. 30ml. I tested 2ml sample.



This cream is available in two shades: #1 Light Beige and #2 Natural Beige, I went for the lightest one, as always ;) I often have problems with deciding if cream has pink or yellow undertones, but in this case the yellow tones were obvious even for me. Picture dosn't show it so much, but I have to admit that colour freaked me out a bit ;) Fortunatelly it look alright on the skin. It's slightly more matte than average BB Cream, similary to Good Afternoon Peach Green Tea BB. However it is not a full matt, I was using a bit of powder on top of it.

 
The consistency is quite rare - I am used to something thicker, so I was struggling a little with application. Using make up sponge to apply is completly pointless - the sponge absorbs most of the cream, so during one application with sponge I used up almost half of my sample. My fingers didn't do a great job either, so I think for that one brush is the best option. This cream offers very natural look but quite poor coverage - just enough to cover blackheads and some of enlarged pores. Becouse of rare consistency it is hard to layer it in places that need more coverage. I didn't notice any improvements on my pores or sebum production. My face started to shine after approx. 2h, my standart time. Product has very nice peachy smell - on the begining I could also smell some alcohol in it (sake?), however now I don't feel it anymore, so I used to it or maybe it evaporated? The peach notes are nice accent to application and dissapear a moment after.
Cream has a SPF20 PA+.

The price of full size product: from £5 on e-Bay.

Pros:
+ gives natural look
+ slightly matte
+ nice smell
+ cheap

Cons:
- too rare consistency
- poor coverage
- rolls up in wrinkles
- doesn't improve pores or sebum (promised on packaging)

Overall I like the natural look of it, but for my acne damaged skin the coverage is too light. I think it would do fine for people who have less to hide. So far I am not interested in getting a full size version


Active ingerdients: TITANIUM DIOXIDE 7.73%, OCTINOXATE 3%
Other ingredients: WATER, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PEG/PPG-19/19 DIMETHICONE, BARIUM SULFATE, CAPRYLYL METHICONE, CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, POLYMETHYL METHACRYLATE, VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER, DIMETHICONE, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-51, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, STEARIC ACID, SORBITAN OLIVATE, TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, PRUNUS PERSICA (PEACH) FRUIT EXTRACT, RICE FERMENT FILTRATE (SAKE), ENANTIA CHLORANTHA BARK EXTRACT, OLEANOLIC ACID, ALCOHOL, TALC, PHENOXYETHANOL, PROPYLPARABEN, METHYLPARABEN, FRAGRANCE, IRON OXIDES (CI 77492), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491), IRON OXIDES (CI 77499), ULTRAMARINES (CI 77007)

Friday 21 June 2013

Why is it important to protect our skin from UV rays?

While in Europe we like to sunbathe, in Asia it's considered to be harmful. Why?

Sun parasols are very popular in Asia.
What are UV rays and what influence they have on our skin?
Sun rays have been divided into few ranges according to their influence on humans. Surface of the Earth is reached by ultraviolet rays in range from 280 to 400 nanometres. There are three kinds of UV rays:

  • UVC - 200-280nm - this kind of rays is almost completely absorbed by ozone sphere, so it doesn't reach surface of the Earth. This kind of rays are highly harmful - they may be used in laboratories or hospitals to sterilise surfaces.
  • UVB - 280-320nm - represents 5% of rays reaching surface of the Earth and can't penetrate throughout clouds and glass, however it penetrates epidermis. UVB rays are responsible for sunbathing effects and also for sunburns, allergic reactions and skin cancers.
  • UVA - 320-400nm - represents 95% of rays reaching surface of the Earth and it's present all year round, including winter. There rays penetrate throughout clouds, glass and epidermis and they are very tricky, as they don't cause any pain (so we don't sunburn with them). UVA rays are responsible for creating free radicals, that in long terms can provoke changes in cells, like photoaging, sun intolerance, pigmentation or even skin cancers.
Photo posted in New England Journal of Medicine showing negative effects of one-sided UV rays exposure after 30 years of driving truck.

So Asians are right hiding from sun ;) However we are not able to completely disable UV rays, how should we then protect our skin from it?

SPF and PA filters
SPF stand for "sun protection factor" and it's used to state protection level from UVB rays in suncare cosmetics. Factor is scaled from 2 to 50, however recently we may come across factors higher that 50. The SPF is calculated by comparing the amount of time needed to burn the skin that is protected to unprotected skin. For example: person who would normally get sunburned after 10 minutes of sunbathing, using SPF10 would get burned in ten times longer period of time, so after approx. 100hours if sunbathing with SPF (in constant UV). Cosmetics with SPF15 should stop 93% UVB, SPF30 - 97%. However we should remember that SPF filters are working only for two hours after application - after that time we should reapply them.

PA filters are protecting from UVA rays and have only very general, three levels scale: PA+, PA++ and PA+++. More pluses = more protection.
Filter protecting from UVA rays can be also marked with symbols IPD or PPD.

Unfortunately a lot of cosmetics still have only SPF filters, which don't offer our skin full protection. So far all the BB Creams I came across and tested had both filters.


Mineral and chemical filters 
Mineral filters, known also as a physical filters are compounds, that create physical barrier on our skin, reflecting or dispersing UV rays. Their molecules are big enough to not be able to penetrate epidermis, so they stay on the top of our skin, blocking UVB rays and some UVA rays. There are two compounds qualifying as a mineral filters: Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide.

Pros of mineral filters:
+ well tolerated by skin, very rarely causing allergies
+ effective immediately after application
+ photostable - they don't loose their properties under influence of UV rays, oxidation or time
+ they don't accumulate in our system

Cons of mineral filters:
- on their own they are not able to provide us high protection against UV rays
- they may require often re-application (especially after swimming or activities causing intensive sweating)
- they may whiten skin or clog pores

Chemical filters are substances, that are penetrating epidermis, absorbing UV rays and converting them into harmless heat.

Pros of chemical filters:
+ highly effective
+ invisible on skin
+ non-greasy

Cons of chemical filters:
- less photostable than mineral filters
- may cause irritation
- not effective straight after application - we need to wait 20-30 minutes before they start working
- they may accumulate in our system

The less stabile filter, which is better to be avoided is oxybenozone (or Benzophenone - 3, Benzophenone - 4), trading names Eusolex 4360, Escalol 567, KAHSCREEN BZ-3.

In generall the most effective sun screens would be mixers of mineral and chemical filters, like Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL, Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M.
 

Stay safe
Even using the best filters we should still remember about rules of safe sunbathing. It's best to sunbathe in movement and reduce our exposition to sun between 12pm and 3pm. If you are on holiday and planing to sunbathe everyday it's best to divide it in steps, starting from just 10-15 minutes the first day and then extending the sunbathing time every next day. Also bear in mind that near water (and it the water) the sun is exposure is doubled up, as UV rays are reflected by water.

The most common mistake is using UV protection only in the summer - UV rays are dangerous to our skin through the whole year, regardless of the temperature and clouds. If you want healthy, young looking skin you should remember about UV filters all year round. If you can't be bothered with lotions/sprays with filters it worth looking for cosmetics you use everyday anyway with filters. In European market is very easy to find day cream with UV filter, on Asian market almost every BB cream contains SPF. Unfortunately, to provide our skin maximal protection we should reapply filter every 2-3 hours, so the easy and simple solutions are powders/pacts with SPF.


Skin Food's powder pact with high filters SPF50 PA+++.

Tony Moly Dear Me Petite Cotton BB Cream

Hi there :)
From time to time when I'm making order on e-Bay I like to add some product spontaneously, without making wide research about it. This time I decided to get BB Cream form Tony Moly, it was cheap enough to take risk.



Description: This BB Cream makes your skin baby-soft as it adheres lightly to your skin and gives your skin flawless finish. It delivers appropriate makeup coverage to your skin, without leaving an oily residue behind. SPF 30 PA++

Cream contains few skin beneficial ingredients:
  • Arbutin - an active ingredient brightening up skin, used to treat hyperpigmentation caused by acne, allergies, infections, scars etc. It's also a natural filter against UV radiation (types A, B, C).
  • Silica - skin mattifying
  • Portulaca Oleracea Extract (also known as wild portulaca or pigweed) - has many benefits on skin: soothing effect, accelerating healing process, improving skin's elasticity. As a natural source of vitamins A, C and E and the co-enzyme Q10, is an excellent antioxidant, fighting premature ageing and protecting skin from environmental damage
  • Witch hazel extract - a strong astringent & antioxidant, has antibacterial & anti-inflammatory properties, effective in acne treatments
  • Adenosine - helps prevent wrinkles, reduces UVB sun damage, increases the production of elastin and collagen reducing skin sogginess and improving tone
  • Hyaluronic Acid - is a powerful anti ageing ingredient in skin care. It is naturally occurring in the skin, but as we get older it's level decrease causing our skin to age and sag. It has ability to absorb water up to 1000 times its weight, what makes it one of the best moisturising substances known.
  • Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola) - an effective anti-photo ageing agent, mainly due to enhancement of collagen, which amount in skin decreases with age. Listed in Indian Ayurvedic medicine to combat excessively dry skin. Has anti-inflammatory properties, suitable for sensitive skin.
 Altought most of this good ingredients is at the end of the ingredients list, which means it doesn't contain much of them.
 
Full list of ingredients: Water, Cyclotetrasilxane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Titanium Dioxide, Butylene Glycol, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1Dimethicone, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Arbutin, Hexyl Laurate, Polymethyl Methylmethacrylate, Polygryceryl-2 Triisostearate, Bees Wax, Dimethiconecopolypol, Sodium Chloride, Cl 77492, Magnesium Aluminium Silicate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica, Aluminium Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Adenosine, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Sodium Hialuronate, Centella Asiatica Extract.
 
The product comes up in soft squeezy type tube with 30g capacity. It has only one shade: #1 Cotton Beige, what worried me a little bit on the beginning - fortunately colour matched my skin perfectly. 



This cream have great consistency - not too rare and not too thick, it's easy to apply in every way - I tried with my fingers, foundation brush & make up sponge, and they all worked same good. What surprised me most is that it doesn't smudge during application, like some BB creams do - you don't have to pat it into skin, you can just spread it on you face, same way you would spread moisturiser. Thanks to that application can be done really quickly, so I always use it when I am in hurry. It gives medium coverage, evens skin tone, reduces redness and subtly covers scars, managing to look natural & fresh at the same time. It doesn't roll up in wrinkles and doesn't makes dry patches very visible, what is a huge advantage for me (my skin is often dry and flaky in some places because of medical cream I use for my acne). It gives you typical for BB Creams glow effect, I'm mattyfing it gently with powder. My face becomes oily after 2-3 hours, which is a standard time for me. It's basically unscented.

Price: £4-6 on e-Bay.

Pros:
+ perfect consistency; not too rare, not too thick
+ doesn't smudge during application
+ doesn't roll up in wrinkles
+ colour matched my complexion well
+ covers good enough and still loos natural
+ cheap

Cons:
None so far :)

At the moment it's my favourite BB Cream :) However I am not using it every day (daily I am checking out different samples) because it's so good I am saving it for moments when I am in hurry and/or I want to be sure that my skin looks good. I strongly recommend this product and even if you won't like it, you won't loose much - you just simply can't go wrong with four pound ;)

Thursday 20 June 2013

Skin Food Mushroom Multi Care BB Cream

Hello :)
I've bought tones of samples and I am starting up my "Big BB Cream Test" :)
For a good start probably the most popular Skin Food's BB Cream with a mushroom extract.






Product description: This triple-function BB cream provides UV protection and deep moisturization to skin with aloe and mushroom extracts, while arbutin* and adenosine** make skin clear and resilient. 

 *arbutin helps treat hyperpigmentation caused by acne, allergies, infections, scars etc. It can be also used in acne or inflammation treatment. It's also a natural UV filter.

**adenosine helps keep skin elastic as it helps maintain shape of collagen fibres and is responsible for producing new ones.

The full size product comes in classic squeezy tube, cap. 50g., I tested 2g sample.




Of course I used almost all of it before making a pic :]
Cream has very thick consistency, what unfortunately makes it a bit inefficient. The amount shown on picture lasted for one application with brush. I also tried to apply with fingers and sponge, however brush was the most convinient option. The big advantage of the consistency is that you can easly layer it in places where you need more coverage. Overall coverage is nice, it reduces redness and covers some scars. It tends to smudge during application, but it's quite common for BB Creams. Unfortunatelly it makes wrinkles more visible, rolls up in them.
Mushroom BB has SPF20 PA+.



Cream looks really natural and it fitted well with my skin tone. As you can see on a pic - it is spreaded just a little bit but already not strongly visible on a skin. It gives skin typical for BB "glow" effect, it's not very strong, however I was using a bit of powder on top of it.

It is another Skin Food product which surprised me with the smell. How do you think a mushroom product can smell? This one smells like grapefruit ^^ smell is quite strong and I like it a lot, gives a nice fresh feeling during application. Scent dissapears a moment after application.

Product works well with other cosmetics - pressed powder and blusher stay well on top of it. During last application I took a risk and put it around my eyes (once I had weird allergy reaction on my eyelids and since then I am trying to use around my eyes only products designed to it, like Skin Food Salmon Concelaer). It worked quite nicely, covered my dark circles and puffs, eye shadow stayed nicely on top of it.

Lasting a would classify as a 'normal' - my very oily skin stared to by shiny after 2-3 hours. After blotting it looked alright for the next couple of hours.

The price of full size product: from £7 on e-Bay.

Pros:
+ lovely grapefruit scent
+ nice coverage
+ well matching colour
+ doesn't make dry patches more visible

Cons:
- a bit inefficient
- smudges during application
- rolls up in wrinkles

Overall it i quite nice BB Cream and quite cheap considering capacity. If that would be my only sample I would order full size straight away, but I got another 6 to test out, so it has to wait ;)

Friday 14 June 2013

Skin Food: Salmon Brightening Eye Cream & Salmon Dark Circle Concealer

 Hello!
today 2in1 note ;)

Skin Food Salmon Brightening  Eye Cream



Product Description: Containing arbutin and the extracts of Omega 3-rich salmon roe produced in Hokkaido Japan, this eye cream brightens and relieves dark circles around the eyes.
How to use: After using the toner, apply an appropriate amount around your eyes, and tap the area lightly to help the skin absorb it.


Before I start the review itself, I have to tell you that I have quite dark shadows around my eyes (not only under, as my eyelids are quite dark as well) and my eyes tends to be puffy. It's genetic (thanks dad! :P) and they always look like that, even if I get decent sleep (but of course gets worse if I don't...). Anyway, I just don't belive in any cosmetic miracles that could solve this problem completly, but still spend fortune on eye care products...
I've decided to give that one a go, because some weird allergy reaction appeard on my eyelids (never had it before) - they were dry, itchy, swollen... Awful :/ Skin Foods uses natural ingredients and salmon is oily, so I hoped for well moisturisation. And my hopes were fullfilled :)

 
The product arrived wrapped in foil, what is typical for Skinfood products. It is a glass jar, covered with some kind of metal (aluminium?) on the outside. First thing what surprised me was the size of the jar - usually I was using eye creams in tubes, I had jar only once and it was tiny. This cream offers us a generous capacity of 30g (I always have problems with imagining size of the product form capacity only, this is why size surprised me). It looks like it is going to last me for a year xD I am using it twice daily from three weeks and so far it looks like barely used.


Cream itself is very rich, but not greasy - it absorbs quickly in skin and leaves it well moisturised. It is suitable to use under make up, as it doesn't leave any layer on skin.
Since it has salmon origin you must wonder how does it smell. Certainly not fishy ;) it has nice, subtle flowery scent. It's a Skin Food thing - you don't really know what kind of smell to expect (extracts from tomatoes, salmon, mushrooms...), but at the end of the day smell is a nice surprise.

Now the most important part: performance. Ladies and Gentleman, I am happy to announce that Salmon Brightening Eye Cream works! :) My skin around eyes feels great - it's brighten and moisturised, and with good moisturisation goes also a delicate neutralisation of wrinkles (I have 'smiling' horizontal lines under my eyes). Unfortunately it doesn't do anything with puffiness, but producent doesn't promise that, so there is nothing to moan about.


Price: from £9 on e-Bay.

Pros:
+ rich consistency and fast absorbent
+ good moisture
+ nice smell
+ does brighten dark circles
+ quite cheap considering capacity

Cons:
- doesn't fight puffiness, but producent doesn't promise that, so it's kinda 'half-con' ;)



Skin Food Salmon Dark Circle Concealer Cream


Product description: This concealer effectively hides dark circle, with salmon extract and oil.
How to use: After applying foundation, dispense an adequate amount and then gently tap onto dark circles around the eyes.


Product comes in glass jar, cap. 10g, the foil thermo-wrapped around jar is guarantee that product is new. Concealer is available in two shades: #1 Salmon Blooming and #2 Salmon Beige, I have #1. When I first opened the jar colour surprised me a little bit...


As you can see colour seems to be a bit weird pinkish- orange. But it turned out that it's just the smoothened, top layer of product which has such a weird looking colour, underneath it looks better:



The consistency is quite dense (so we can't literally put finger into it, but just touch up the top of it) and  velvety in touch. Application is nice and easy - a touch of concealer is enough to get the right amount on the finger and then just pat it into skin. It stays nicely on the skin and covers all the purplish circles around eyes, makes them look more radiant. It doesn't roll up and doesn't get into wrinkles. It also have caring properties - skin around eyes is so nice and smooth I want to touch it all the times xD I've also done a little experiment and tried it out on other parts of my face and it worked a little bit, but it's clearly not meant for covering spots.

Price: from £5 on e-Bay.

Pros:
+ a little goes a long way
+ cheap
+ not only conceals but cares as well
+ doesn't roll up
+ good coverage
+ nice smell

Cons:
NONE! :)

Both products from Salmon series are very good and highly recommended :)

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