5 things you should know about BB Creams

I am absolutely obsessed with BB Creams - since I discovered them I banned foundations. But what makes BB Cream so phenomenal? I would like to tell you about 5 things that makes it different.

1. It cares

BB stands for "Beauty Balm" or "Blemish Balm". The very first BB Creams were invented in Germany for people after operations, to help skin heal and conceal the scars at the same time. Then idea was catched by Asian beauty companies and BB cream was released to market as a make up product. Few years ago BB Creams were mostly Asian products, some time ago they emerged to European cosmetic market and now almost every Western company has own BB Cream: Avon, Oriflame, Olay, Garnier, Maybelline...
So the first phenomenon of BB Cream is that it's skincare and make up at the same time. If you never used BB Cream before you can think about it as a tinted moisturiser, however it offers better coverage than tinted cream. BB Creams contain different substances, that are supposed to care for our skin - plant extracts, vitamins, or even novelties like snail muscus. And as a skincare product, different BBs are targeting different skin needs. For example BRTC Jasmine Water BB does moisturising wonder for dry skin, when Skin79 Hot Pink BB does good job on sebum control for oily skin.
Also the majority of BB Creams (if not all of them) contains SPF to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.

BB Cream with Sail secretion filtrate and it's benefits.

  2. It's dewy

When in Europe we are still opting for rather matte finish of our make-up and eventually just highlight it when needed, Asian market prefers "glow effect". As far as I noticed from reading hundredths of products descriptions and reviews, the idea of perfect skin in Asia is clear and dewy complexion, skin glowing from within. Most of Asian BB Creams will give you slightly shiny finish - some just a little bit, some giving skin almost a wet look. A great example of classic, healthy glow effect is Missha M Perfect Cover BB. There are some mattifying BB Creams available as well (Lioele Dollish or Skin Food Peach Green Tea), but they are still nor as matte as some mattifying foundations. A few times I read negative reviews about some mattifying products, because they were "too mattifying" 0o clearly a strong matte skin is considered as "flat" and "lifeless".  I must admit, since I started using BB creams on regular basis I like a bit of glow, especially on my cheeks and eye area. I matte only my super oily T-zone.

Etude House's BB promo - notice how dewy the model's face is.

3. It looks and feels natural

BB Cream as a skin care and make-up in one, may not offer you as strong coverage as some foundations would. It is supposed to perfect our skin up by blending with it, not by completely covering it. I must say I really like it - I have uneven skin tone (pink cheeks vs white temples), shadowy eyes (my veins are close to the surface - not much I can do about it) and a lot of acne scars. Even the best make up is not able to completely cover my scars - once I had make up done by professional with all the bases, foundations, powders and concealers... it covered up most of my scares, but they were still visible. Not mentioning that all these layers of make-up felt super-heavy on my oily face... and BB cream? It manages to cover my blackheads and evens out my skin tone. My scars are still visible, but a little toned and make up feels very light. Somehow I feel like foundation doesn't allow my skin to breathe - after the whole day with foundation on my acne would be irritated, more red and sore. BB Cream doesn't make my skin angry, sometimes even soothes it.

4. Less is more

Another thing that differs BB Creams from foundations is a way of application. It took me really long time to learn how to use BB Cream in the right way - and because I keep testing different ones, with different consistency I still make mistakes sometimes. The thing with BB Cream is that the less you use, the better it will look. Have you ever put too much moisturiser on your face and made it feel greasy? BB Cream may do the same if overdosed. It's also much more likely to roll up in wrinkles. In general I would say that a pea size or less is an optimal amount. I noticed that I tend to overuse when I put BB cream straight from the packaging onto my face, so what I do now is dispense a pea size on the top of my left palm and apply it from palm to face with my right palm. Pea size turns out to be well enough for the whole face, sometimes even too much. I first apply it overall ant then I put second layer on areas that need more concealing - my acne scars and eye areas. Using the right amount of BB Cream makes it look very natural and weightless. In general BB cream should be rather patted than rubbed into face - if you have problem with patting, try make up sponge first - dab it into cream and then "staple" your face.

5. It contains silicone

BB creams are well known from their ability of smoothen skin out. It's because most of them contain silicons - a substance which divided beauty experts - some says it's good, the others that it should be avoided. The biggest advantage of silicone are immediate effects - they smoothen out skin, make hair soft and shiny. The problem is that some silicons can build up and create a layer stopping other ingredients from reaching our skin. That's why it's extremely important to make sure you cleanse your skin properly if you use any products (BB Creams, primers, foundations) containing silicons. One of the best ways is using cleansing oil.
As a several acne suferer I can assure you that silicons in BB Creams I tested out so far, are not irritating my skin or causing acne to get worse. I also didn't notice any pore clogging. Of course every skin is different, so you may react differently, but I think that as long as you cleanse your skin properly you should be fine.

Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence

I was looking at this type of product from a while now and finally ordered some samples. And honestly, this is my discovery of the year. I am not sure if I will be able to fully describe how much I love this product xD

Product description: Back to the Basics, a Stepping Stone to a Healthier and New Skin.
Contains 80% Fermented Yeast Concentrate, “FISSIONE", which absorbs into skin instantly to energize your skin. THE FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE improves fine lines and skin tone. Miracle water “FISSIONE” hydrates, restores, rejuvenates, and gives you a glowing complexion.
How to use: After wash your face, at FIRST step to your skin care routine, use palm of your hand absorb gently and evenly onto your face.*
 * this is an original description form Missha US website. You will often find that description of Asian products are written in "funny English".

So, the story is, that people who were producing sake noticed that their hands, which had constant contact with yeast used for sake fermentation, are looking much younger and healthier than the rest of their bodies. And that's how the yeast extract became a cosmetic ingredient. The yeast in this particular essence is Saccharomyces, order Saccharomycetale, family Saccharomycetaceae. Other popular fungi used in cosmetics in Galactomyces, from the same order but different family (Dipodascaceae).

The whole ingredients list is pretty impressive. Saccharomyces is on the first place, then we have loads of other skin-loving ingredients like:

• Licorice extract - has anti-inflammatory properties and has ability to interrupt the stimulation of an enzyme that activates melanin production, so it's effective for improving dark spots and hyperpigmentation
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - offers multiple benefits for ageing skin- can improve skin's elasticity, enhance skin's barrier function, help erase discolourations, and revive skin's healthy tone and texture.
• Amaranth Oil - Has anti-inflammatory properties. Rich in Squalene, that has ability to lock in moisture and prevent water loss from skin. Contains Omega 3 and 6 which accelerate cell regeneration.
• Elm root extract - has anti-inflammatory and moisturising properties
• Kava Extract - Kava is a psychoactive plant, native for western Pacific cultures. Kava is consumed as a drink with with sedative and anaesthetic properties. Because of it's psychoactive properties kava-based products are banned or controlled in some European countries. In skin care products has anti-inflammatory properties.
• Betroot Extract - Beetroot's pigment, betalain is a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and fungicidal. Lycopene found in beetroot juice maintains the skin elasticity and protects the skin from sun damage.
• Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola) extract - an effective anti-photo ageing agent, mainly due to enhancement of collagen, which amount in skin decreases with age. Listed in Indian Ayurvedic medicine to combat excessively dry skin. Has anti-inflammatory properties, suitable for sensitive skin.
• Portulaca Oleracea Extract (also known as wild portulaca or pigweed) - has many benefits on skin: soothing effect, accelerating healing process, improving skin's elasticity. As a natural source of vitamins A, C and E and the co-enzyme Q10, is an excellent antioxidant, fighting premature ageing and protecting skin from environmental damage.
• Chamomile - well known for it's skin soothing properties
• Rosemary extract - has moisturising properties, supports healthy collagen development to fighting off skin-damaging free radicals.
• Phellodendron Amurense (Cork Tree) Bark Extract - traditionally used in Chinese medicine to treat different forms of inflammation and bone pain. Contains peptides with anti-oxidant properties and berberine with antibacterial and anti-fungal properties.
• Cassia Alata (Candle bush) leaf extract - has anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties. Used to treat various skin problems, including syphilis sores, psoriasis, herpes, chronic lichen planus, scabies, shingles, eczema, rash and itching.
• Adenosine - helps prevent wrinkles, reduces UVB sun damage, increases the production of elastin and collagen reducing skin sogginess and improving tone
• Hyaluronic Acid - is a powerful anti ageing ingredient in skin care. It is naturally occurring in the skin, but as we get older it's level decrease causing our skin to age and sag. It has ability to absorb water up to 1000 times its weight, what makes it one of the best moisturising substances known.

Full list of ingredients: Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Propanediol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium-51, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Raffinose, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Glycerin, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Centella Asiatica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Tromethamine, Water, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate
Ingredients analysis: [HERE] 

The idea of beautiful skin in Asia is a dewy, clear complexion, that glows from within. You can see what I am talking about on the picture above. Although this pic is for sure airbrushed this is what a perfect skin should look like and products like this one is supposed to give the skin that beautiful glow.

I had one sample randomly kicking about, a free gift to some e-Bay order. I decided to give it a go when I run out of toner. It lasted for two applications, would last longer but genius Ninja was not careful enough and spilled half of it =.= because I liked the form of product, but couldn't really tell much about how it works after just two uses, I ordered set of 10 samples (1ml each) from e-Bay.

The product has very runny consistency, just like water. So the sachet form of sample is very inconvenient - easy to spill.  Learnt from the experience of spilling the first sample, when I received my 10 samples I decanted them into empty bottle after toner, with spray applicator. Unfortunately I already used it all, so I can't show you a picture, sorry!

Product is almost non-scented. I mean, there is some scent to it, but it's very very subtle and hard to describe. Not bothering at all.
Product has "4 weeks" guarantee - it promises to turn your skin into "new skin" in 4 weeks time. My sampled lasted me for over a week and for the results I experienced - I totally believe in their promise. Every day, in the morning and in the evening I was dispensing three sprays onto my face and gently patting product into skin until absorbed. It takes maybe like 30 seconds to absorb. Using this product I experienced the whole new level of moisture - it leaves skin slightly sticky, but not disgusting, greasy glue like sticky, but well moisturised and supple kind of sticky. I don't know if you know what I'm talking abut, but trust me - it's very pleasant feeling. The product is almost weightless - I can feel that my skin is moisturised, but there is no residue to it. Any products applied after First Essence are still absorbing into skin well.
Because I used it only for week, I cannot tell much about wrinkle improvement - however me skin definitely feels different - it's well moisturised, and this feeling last whole day. Literally WHOLE DAY. Sometimes I can feel in the middle of the day that after layer of sebum there is dried and tense skin. Not with this product. Seriously, this is my moisturising holy grail. So the other name of the product: "miracle water" is very suitable. My skin is slightly brighter, radiant and very nice and soft in touch.

Price: the full 150ml bottle is available on e-Bay from £20. You can also grab 30ml sample bottle for £6 or set of 10 sample sachets (1ml) for £3.

Pros:
+ absorbs fully, no residue
+ well moisturises skin
+ leaves skin soft and radiant

Cons:
- the sample sachets are not very handy and it's easy to spill

I totally love love LOVE this product <3 I am sooooo buying this in the full size!

There is loads of similar yeast-based essences in Korean cosmetic market. The craze was started by posh Japanese brand SK-II. SK-II Facial Treatment essence was the first product called "miracle water", containing Galactomyces - they even patented their main ingredient and called it Pitera. Unfortunately the original SK-II essence is very expensive - the 150ml bottle costs over £70! 

SK-II has 7-day results promise.

Other well known SK-II dupe is made by Secret Key. Their Starting Treatment Essence also contains Galactomyces and can be bought for as little as £11 on e-Bay. There are good reviews about it on different blogs, so if you are on a budget I think this may be worth trying.

Tony Moly Clean Dew Apple Mint Cleansing Oil

Hello ^^
Today I would like to introduce you to a cleansing oil. I heard about oil cleansing before and it's supposed to be really good, however I was very resistant to the idea. I have an oily, acne prone skin and I just couldn't believe that putting oil on my face will do any good. Then I read that oil cleansing is really good to cleanse skin off from silicons and because I started introducing silicone-based primers to my every day skincare routine (and I am using silicone containing  BB cream every day as well), I've finally  decided to give a cleansing oil a go. And I loved it!

Product description: Contains pure green complex to remain moisturised skin for hours without dryness after cleansing. Moisturising apple mint removes dead skin and impurities clearly. Refreshing type of cleansing oil. Paraben, phenoxy ethanol, benzophenone, sulfate surfactant, tar color free.

The product comes 150ml plastic bottle with pump. I must say I really love the simple yet elegant design of the bottle, also the pump is super handy, as oil is quite runny and of course greasy.

How to use step by step:

From left: lip gloss, lipstick, eye liner, eye shadow, waterproof eye liner, mascara, BB cream.

1. Dispense some amount of oil onto your palms (for me two pumps are just the right amount) and start massaging your dry face.

Make up starts to melt with oil, only waterproof eye liner and mascara are a bit resistant.

2. Wet your fingers and keep massaging your skin. With a little bit of water oil starts to emulsify and becomes a bit foamy. This is the most important step as it takes the most of make up and impurities away.

Even the waterproof eyeliner doesn't stand a chance against emulsified oil! :)

3. Rinse of with warm water.

Clean! ^^

4. Clean your face with your favourite cleansing foam/gel.
Note: because the oil does all the heavy duty cleaning you can go for some really mild foam.

I absolutely love performance of this product. It cleans well, but doesn't dry out skin. I was afraid how my oily skin will react treated with OIL, but I haven't experience any breakouts. After cleansing my face is instantly brightened and pores are minimised (remember: well cleaned pores = smaller pores!). Skin is moisturised and smooth in touch. The lovely apple scent with a subtle hint of mint is just a cherry on the top.

Price: just over £7 on e-Bay.  This is actually the cheapest Korean cleansing oil I managed to find ^^

Pros:
+ cleanse well
+ refreshes and brightens up face
+ doesn't dry out the skin
+ lovely scent
+ cheap

Cons:
NONE!

It's another Tony Moly product (among the Petite Me Cotton BB Cream) that goes onto my favourites list. Highly recommended to anyone ^^

BRTC Jasmine Water BB Cream Review

Hello ^^
BRTC seems to be quite popular recently, so I purchased some samples. Here is review of the most popular one, Jasmine Water.

Product description: BB cream that helps soothing and moisturising of dry and sensitive skin.
Wrinkle improving  + Whitening functions + UV protection SPF30 / PA++

The full size product is a 60g tube, I was testing out sample sachets.

I ordered three samples and for the convenience I've emptied them to a little jar container. Samples are quite generous and the cream is veeeeery efficient - I can't even count how many times I already used it, probably somewhere between 7 and 10 times and I still didn't finish the sample off.

Among other BRTC samples.

The moment I open the container I can smell jasmine. I am not the biggest fan of this smell, but it also doesn't bother me much. Fades away during application. The consistency is quite thick, so works well with make-up sponge. When applied by fingers must be pat into the skin. With this you need to be very careful about how much you use - it's very moisturising and nourishing, applied in excess is too heavy, especially for my oily skin. I noticed that when I apply is straight from the container I tend to overdose, so now I scoop out half of a pea size from the container onto top of my palm and apply it on face from palm. When carefully applied my skin becomes oily after approx. 3h, which is my standard time. I need to blot my face approx. three times, with every blotting cream seams to disappear a little. If I apply it in the morning I would have to completely re-apply it in the evening to go out.

There is no much shade difference between Jasmine and other BRTC creams.

 The colour match my complexion quite well. Coverage is nice, evens out skin tone, but looks natural, blends well into skin. It also doesn't roll in my wrinkles which is a plus, however it doesn't conceals enlarged pores very, I think it actually makes them more visible. It's probably because of quite strong "glow effect" - for me leaving the house without the mattifying powder is a complete no-no, but glow lovers will be delighted. The pore covering primer is also a must for me.
As for the whitening - I didn't notice any effect on my skin.

Price of full size product: from £9 on e-Bay. Product is also available in set with vibratory puff applicator from £22.

Pros:
+ moisturising
+ nice shade, blends well into skin
+ a little goes a very long way
+ evens out skin tone, but looks natural
+ doesn't roll up in wrinkles

Cons:
- need to be careful with application - heavy when overdosed
- makes pores more visible
- quite strong shine/glow effect (but it may be a plus for someone) 

I believe that this would be a great product for people with rather dry skin. For me it is a good enough product, however I don't plan to re-purchase, I would rather be looking for something lighter.

Ingredients list and analysis [HERE]