Thursday 27 March 2014

Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence

I was looking at this type of product from a while now and finally ordered some samples. And honestly, this is my discovery of the year. I am not sure if I will be able to fully describe how much I love this product xD


Product description: Back to the Basics, a Stepping Stone to a Healthier and New Skin.
Contains 80% Fermented Yeast Concentrate, “FISSIONE", which absorbs into skin instantly to energize your skin. THE FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE improves fine lines and skin tone. Miracle water “FISSIONE” hydrates, restores, rejuvenates, and gives you a glowing complexion.

How to use: After wash your face, at FIRST step to your skin care routine, use palm of your hand absorb gently and evenly onto your face.*
 * this is an original description form Missha US website. You will often find that description of Asian products are written in "funny English".

So, the story is, that people who were producing sake noticed that their hands, which had constant contact with yeast used for sake fermentation, are looking much younger and healthier than the rest of their bodies. And that's how the yeast extract became a cosmetic ingredient. The yeast in this particular essence is Saccharomyces, order Saccharomycetale, family Saccharomycetaceae. Other popular fungi used in cosmetics in Galactomyces, from the same order but different family (Dipodascaceae).

The whole ingredients list is pretty impressive. Saccharomyces is on the first place, then we have loads of other skin-loving ingredients like:
  • Licorice extracthas anti-inflammatory properties and has ability to interrupt the stimulation of an enzyme that activates melanin production, so it's effective for improving dark spots and hyperpigmentation
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - offers multiple benefits for ageing skin- can improve skin's elasticity, enhance skin's barrier function, help erase discolourations, and revive skin's healthy tone and texture.
  • Amaranth Oil - Has anti-inflammatory properties. Rich in Squalene, that has ability to lock in moisture and prevent water loss from skin. Contains Omega 3 and 6 which accelerate cell regeneration.
  • Elm root extract - has anti-inflammatory and moisturising properties
  • Kava Extract - Kava is a psychoactive plant, native for western Pacific cultures. Kava is consumed as a drink with with sedative and anaesthetic properties. Because of it's psychoactive properties kava-based products are banned or controlled in some European countries. In skin care products has anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Betroot Extract - Beetroot's pigment, betalain is a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and fungicidal. Lycopene found in beetroot juice maintains the skin elasticity and protects the skin from sun damage.
  • Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola) extract - an effective anti-photo ageing agent, mainly due to enhancement of collagen, which amount in skin decreases with age. Listed in Indian Ayurvedic medicine to combat excessively dry skin. Has anti-inflammatory properties, suitable for sensitive skin.
  • Portulaca Oleracea Extract (also known as wild portulaca or pigweed) - has many benefits on skin: soothing effect, accelerating healing process, improving skin's elasticity. As a natural source of vitamins A, C and E and the co-enzyme Q10, is an excellent antioxidant, fighting premature ageing and protecting skin from environmental damage.
  • Chamomile - well known for it's skin soothing properties
  • Rosemary extract - has moisturising properties, supports healthy collagen development to fighting off skin-damaging free radicals.
  • Phellodendron Amurense (Cork Tree) Bark Extract - traditionally used in Chinese medicine to treat different forms of inflammation and bone pain. Contains peptides with anti-oxidant properties and berberine with antibacterial and anti-fungal properties.
  • Cassia Alata (Candle bush) leaf extract - has anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties. Used to treat various skin problems, including syphilis sores, psoriasis, herpes, chronic lichen planus, scabies, shingles, eczema, rash and itching.
  • Adenosine - helps prevent wrinkles, reduces UVB sun damage, increases the production of elastin and collagen reducing skin sogginess and improving tone
  • Hyaluronic Acid - is a powerful anti ageing ingredient in skin care. It is naturally occurring in the skin, but as we get older it's level decrease causing our skin to age and sag. It has ability to absorb water up to 1000 times its weight, what makes it one of the best moisturising substances known.
Full list of ingredients: Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Propanediol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium-51, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Raffinose, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Glycerin, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Centella Asiatica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Tromethamine, Water, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate
Ingredients analysis: [HERE] 

The idea of beautiful skin in Asia is a dewy, clear complexion, that glows from within. You can see what I am talking about on the picture above. Although this pic is for sure airbrushed this is what a perfect skin should look like and products like this one is supposed to give the skin that beautiful glow.

I had one sample randomly kicking about, a free gift to some e-Bay order. I decided to give it a go when I run out of toner. It lasted for two applications, would last longer but genius Ninja was not careful enough and spilled half of it =.= because I liked the form of product, but couldn't really tell much about how it works after just two uses, I ordered set of 10 samples (1ml each) from e-Bay.


The product has very runny consistency, just like water. So the sachet form of sample is very inconvenient - easy to spill.  Learnt from the experience of spilling the first sample, when I received my 10 samples I decanted them into empty bottle after toner, with spray applicator. Unfortunately I already used it all, so I can't show you a picture, sorry!



Product is almost non-scented. I mean, there is some scent to it, but it's very very subtle and hard to describe. Not bothering at all.
Product has "4 weeks" guarantee - it promises to turn your skin into "new skin" in 4 weeks time. My sampled lasted me for over a week and for the results I experienced - I totally believe in their promise. Every day, in the morning and in the evening I was dispensing three sprays onto my face and gently patting product into skin until absorbed. It takes maybe like 30 seconds to absorb. Using this product I experienced the whole new level of moisture - it leaves skin slightly sticky, but not disgusting, greasy glue like sticky, but well moisturised and supple kind of sticky. I don't know if you know what I'm talking abut, but trust me - it's very pleasant feeling. The product is almost weightless - I can feel that my skin is moisturised, but there is no residue to it. Any products applied after First Essence are still absorbing into skin well.
Because I used it only for week, I cannot tell much about wrinkle improvement - however me skin definitely feels different - it's well moisturised, and this feeling last whole day. Literally WHOLE DAY. Sometimes I can feel in the middle of the day that after layer of sebum there is dried and tense skin. Not with this product. Seriously, this is my moisturising holy grail. So the other name of the product: "miracle water" is very suitable. My skin is slightly brighter, radiant and very nice and soft in touch.

Price: the full 150ml bottle is available on e-Bay from £20. You can also grab 30ml sample bottle for £6 or set of 10 sample sachets (1ml) for £3.

Pros:
+ absorbs fully, no residue
+ well moisturises skin
+ leaves skin soft and radiant

Cons:
- the sample sachets are not very handy and it's easy to spill

I totally love love LOVE this product <3 I am sooooo buying this in the full size!


There is loads of similar yeast-based essences in Korean cosmetic market. The craze was started by posh Japanese brand SK-II. SK-II Facial Treatment essence was the first product called "miracle water", containing Galactomyces - they even patented their main ingredient and called it Pitera. Unfortunately the original SK-II essence is very expensive - the 150ml bottle costs over £70! 

SK-II has 7-day results promise.
Other well known SK-II dupe is made by Secret Key. Their Starting Treatment Essence also contains Galactomyces and can be bought for as little as £11 on e-Bay. There are good reviews about it on different blogs, so if you are on a budget I think this may be worth trying.

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