Korean skincare routine: Layering

When you first start to browse for some Asian brands skincare products you may notice that each line has quite wide choice of products. In Europe we stick to approx. 3-5 step routine, ie. cleanser, toner, eye cream, day/night cream + eventually make up, in Asia skin care routine can take even 10 steps. It's called "layering" and the main idea is to go from the most light and absorbing into skin ingredients, to ones that stay on the top of skin creating protective layer.

Missha Stem Cell Line: Toner -> Serum -> Eye Cream -> Emulsion -> Defending Cream/Recovery Cream

Here is an example of steps with short explanation of each step:
1. Cleansing - in Asian way of beauty this is almost the most important part of a skin care routine, often extended to a "double cleansing" - first we are supposed to remove make up, sebum etc. with cleansing oil/cream/milk/butter and then follow with cleansing gel/foam/soap, we can also add some peeling gel. Remember - the cleaner you face is, the tighter pores are, as usually they are widen as a result of sebum/dirt stuck in them.
2. Toner - in Europe most of toners are astringents, supposed to make sure there is nothing left on our skin after cleansing, in Asia toners are usually more caring, moisturising and packed with goodness. Sometimes it has thicker consistency than a typical water-like toner. Some of them are containing alcohol, but they still aren't as harsh as some of European ones.
3. Essence - it's moisturising product, but with very watery consistence, sometimes as watery as toner. It's supposed to absorb completely into skin without leaving any residue. In some lines it may be recommended to use despite of toner.
4. Serum - Korean serums differ from what we know as a serum in Europe. When in Europe serums are often richer than creams and can be an alternative to cream in Korea they are rather light, non-greasy, supposed to absorb completely into skin. In some lines it may be used despite of essence.
5. Emulsion - it's another light moisturiser. It absorbs quite well and as I noticed from careful lecture of different reviews, some people like to apply a few layers of it. It may have milky or gel texture. In some lines it's supposed to be used straight after the toner, especially if line doesn't contain essence, in some lines it goes before serum, in some after serum.
6. Cream/Gel Cream - in some lines gel cream is supposed to be used first and then to be followed by cream, when in others they are substitutes of each other, so we can choose according to which one we like more. Both of them are supposed to leave a protective shield on the top of our skin, to prevent water loss etc. BUT it's not very common that creams would contain SPF.
7. Sun screen - sun protection is extremely important in Asian beauty care (read why [HERE]).
8. BB Cream/CC Cream/Foundation - as a last step of skin care and first step of make-up at the same time, BB Creams are also containing SPF; BB Creams offers some care + medium coverage, CC Creams are more caring, but with only light coverage.

Mizon Snail Line: All in One Cream -> Ampoule -> Eye Cream -> Recovery Gel -> BB with SPF -> Face mist

There is also a few steps that are either optional or depending on line, are supposed to be used in different order:
- eye cream - in some lines they are recommended to use after essence and before emulsion, some before cream, some don't specify.
- lotion - another type of fully absorbing light moisturiser, in some lines it's watery and used as a substitute of essence or toner, in some it's supposed to be used after essence or serum.
- mask sheet - it's a piece of material cut into a face shape soaked in product, which we put on face for some time. Depending on line, it's supposed to be used before or after toner or just whenever you like. There are also small "moustache" shaped masks specifically for nasolabial fold.
- patches - many variants of gel shapes or foil "stickers" designed to target certain skin concern - the most popular are acne patches and eye patches.
- ampoule - usually appears as a substitute to serum.
- primer/make up base - may be used as a make up product or instead of sunscreen if contains SPF.
- pact/powder - to mattify and/or add SPF.
- facial mist - usually there are two types: moisturising one, which can be used as a essence and during the day, whenever we feel we may need some refreshment and moisture or finishing one, working as make-up fixer.

Secret Key Snail Line: Face Soap & Face foam -> mask sheet -> Toner -> Essence -> Eye Cream -> Emulsion -> Gel Cream/Cream -> BB with SPF

As you can see order can be a bit different according to particular line, so it's always worth checking with particular product. You are also welcome to create your own routine, using product from different lines. The only time when I was actually using products layering was when I was testing out Skin Food Royal Honey Gift Set. The only problem with using so many of steps is that you can't see exactly what influence each product has to your skin, so I prefer to try only one/two moisturising product at once, to see how they work and be able to create my own perfect skin care routine one day.