Friday 17 October 2014

Missha M Signature Real Complete BB Cream No.21 - over 50 botanical extracts!

I really like Missha's products, their skin care is very good quality and their M Perfect Cover was my first ever BB cream, so I was quite excited to try another product from this brand :)



Product description: Combining cosmetics with skin care, this product promotes natural-looking coverage while providing sun protection, treating dark spots, and preventing wrinkles. Skin-friendly Skin Lipids and Amino Acid Complex Peptides strengthen the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin by restoring its natural balance. Engineered with micro-multi roll-grinding technology to create super fine particles that work with skin-smoothing botanical ingredients for lightweight, long-lasting coverage for up to 12 hours. Contains a skin-regenerating peptide complex, skin-soothing Gingko Leaf Water rich in antioxidants, and a 50-kind botanical complex for intense moisture and nutrition. SPF25 PA++

Product is available in two sizes: 20ml squeezy tube or 45ml tube with pump applicator. I was using just the sample sachets: 


The samples are generous and one sachet lasts for 4-5 applications.
This BB cream is available in four shades: No. 13 Light Milky Beige, No. 21 Light Pink Beige, No. 23 Natural Yellow Beige, No.27 Honey Beige.

This BB Cream absolutely blew my mind with it's ingredients list. The description promises us 50-kind botanical complexes - there is actually 53 botanical extracts (yes, I counted! :P) and some other good ingredients. On the second place on the ingredient list, just after the water, we will find Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract. Ginkgo leaf is a good antioxidant due to it being a rich source of flavonoids that work to prevent cell membrane peroxidation, which is a source of damage that can lead to increased signs of inflammation and ageing. Ginkgo leaf also seems capable of increasing skin's moisture content and reducing factors in skin that lead to inflammation.
Other skin-loving ingredients in this cream are:
  • Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu palm) Seed Oil - lightweight and absorbent skin conditioning agent, moisturising and nourishing.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate (sodium salt of hyaluronic acid) - is a powerful anti ageing ingredient in skin care. It is naturally occurring in the skin, but as we get older it's level decrease causing our skin to age and sag. It has ability to absorb water up to 1000 times its weight, what makes it one of the best moisturising substances known.
  • Amino acids: Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Threonine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Proline, Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Methionine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Cysteine - amino acids supply nutrients to nourish the skin, hair and nails from within the body. This procedure strengthens connective tissue and keeps the skin smooth and elastic.
  • Squalane (or Squalene)- natural organic compound obtained from shark liver oil or olive oil. It’s an antioxidant-rich, age-fighting emollient, that over time can reduce wrinkles, eliminate scars, reverse UV damage, lighten freckles and erase skin pigmentation.
  •  Macadamia Seed Oil - contains Palmitoleic acid that is vital for delaying skin and cell ageing, Oleic acid that has regeneration and moisturising properties, Linoleic acid that helps to prevent skin water loss and Plant phytosterols that are calming and healing.
  • Beta glucan - a natural compound extracted from plants, that helps to maintain a youthful appearance for skin
  • Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Flower Extract - one of the most well-known herbal ingredients used in herbal medicine and skincare. Has strong anti-inflamatory and soothing properties, so it's especially recomended for people with sensitive skin, prone to allergy, eczema.
  • Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen (Job's Tears) Seed Extract - have antioxidant effects and might also decrease growth of bacteria and parasites. Can be found in skin care products claiming anti-ageing and whitening properties.
  • Panax Ginseng (Chinese Red Ginseng) Root Extract - contains many substances and vitamins that maintain elasticity, vitality, and regeneration capacity of our skin cells. Contains phytonutrients that can stimulate and activate the skin's metabolism and blood flow to regenerate, tone and brighten the skin. It is also thought to promote skin cell regeneration by increasing oxygenation to skin cells and has the effect of boosting blood circulation as well as detoxifying the blood, which is very important to human skin health. Ginseng detoxifies the skin and rids it off the free radicals that accumulate due to daily exposure to sunlight and environmental pollution.
  • Scrophularia Buergeriana (Buerger's Figwort) Root Extract - anti-inflammatory
  • Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal Skullcap) - used in traditional folk Asian medicine thanks to it's anti-inflammatory, shooting, anti-bacterial and antioxidant properties. It soothes irritated skin, prone to allergies, rashes, eczema, preventing inflammatory process in epidermis. The extract of this plant tones skin and stimulates natural collagen production. It also showed whitening effect on skin and ability to reduce sun and age induced pigmentation. 
  • Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Extract - contains the ingredients that can reduce melanin production and other beneficial elements, which can reduce free radical and speed up cell regeneration, increasing the thickness of the skin and increase collagen production. The polysaccharide can maintain and regulate skin moisture and restore skin elasticity to make the skin returns moist, delicate, shiny. 
  • Rhus Semialata (Chinese sumac) Gall Extract - used in Chinese medicine thanks to it's antiviral, antibacterial, anticancer, hepatoprotective, antidiarrheal and antioxidant properties.
  • Peptides: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) , Copper Tripeptide-1 - anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle

and many more extracts including: strawberry, cucumber, coconut, lime, Japanese camellia, apricot, carrot, grape, sweet cherry, mango, guava, walnut, peach, papaya, licorice, dandelion, pumpkin, lychee, soybean... the general message is: moisturising, anti-ageing, soothing. Except the lavender extract, that is widely used in aromatherapy and brings to mind soothing and relaxing properties, however  used on skin may be actually an irritant.

Ingredients: Water, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Arbutin, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hydrogenated C6-14 Olefin Polymers, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sodium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Methicone, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Mica, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ozokerite, Sorbitan Olivate, Alumina, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hexyl Laurate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Threonine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Proline, Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Methionine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Cysteine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Squalane, Glycerin, Ceramide 3, Cholesterol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols, Beta-Glucan, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Scrophularia Buergeriana Root Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Extract, Linaria Japonica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Oldenlandia Diffusa Extract, Bambusa Textilis Stem Extract, Iris Ensata Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water, Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Asarum Sieboldi Root Extract, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Luffa Cylindrica Fruit Extract, Bletilla Striata Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Rhizome/Root Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Oenanthe Javanica Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Talc, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Methicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tropolone, 1, 2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance
Ingredients analysis [HERE]



Now for the performance: this BB has nice, creamy texture and subtle floral scent. It applies easily on the skin, works best patted with fingers. Coverage is medium - evens out skin tone, covers redness, but blemishes are still visible, just a bit tonned. In fact this very similar in it's performance to Missha M Perfect Cover BB, even colour is similar:


Missha Complete is only a little bit more pinkish than Perfect Cover, but both blend well with my natural skin tone. The main difference is that Complete is a little bit heavier on the skin but also more moisturising. The dewy effect is quite strong, mattyfing powder is a must. It also seemd to increase sebum production - normally my face starts to be oily after approx. 2-3 hours, but if I don't have time to blot I can wait a bit longer, in this case blotting after two hours is an absolute must. The lasting is average - not as good as Etude House Bright Fit BB, but better than M Perfect Cover - Perfect Cover was disappearing after 6-8 hours, Complete can last about 9-10.

Price: from £5 for the 20ml or from £11 for 45ml.

Pros:
+ moisturising
+ doesn't roll up in wrinkles
+ choice of four colours
+ No. 21 nicely fits my natural skin tone
+ impressive ingredients list

Cons:
 - a little bit heavy on the face, seems to stimulate sebum production
- it doesn't last for the promised 12 hours - disappears after 9-10.

The Signature Real Complete seems to be Perfect Cover's big sister. A bit more fancy packaging, extended ingredients, extended lasting, richer feel. If I would have to choose between the two I think I would go for Signature, even though it makes my face a bit more oily. However both of them are a decent products, but there are better ones for my skin type out there, so I am not planing the purchase of full size. If you have mature or/and more dry skin this may be worth trying. 







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